Meet Melbourne’s New Cake Stars
Pastry chefs who go rogue and start glamorous side activities have to be one of the best results of persistent blockages. The winner, dear friends, is most definitely you.
We’re inundated with couture cakes, high-tech pies, and the kind of candy you usually only get after engaging in gourmet tasting, with little gasoline in your tank.
Although baking is one of the most vital sections of the kitchen (penultimate dish and lasting impression), it is rarely presented as more than an act of support and historically it has also been the ice cap. which countless female chiefs have banged their heads against. while male colleagues have been promoted to the highest positions.
Fortunately, a lot of progress has been made over the past decade. We don’t just have more women-run restaurants, they’re some of the best in Australia. This freed the sweet realm of gender stigma to be a dead end, making it for those who really love the craft.
Now, armed only with board-approved cuisine and a strong social presence, many underrated pastry stars are getting the attention they deserve.
Will this boom last once containment is over? Can the city support so many solo artists? Can restaurants survive without them?
Don’t guess at 2021. Get your couture cakes and eat them while you can. These are my best cake pops.
Going solo seems like the right decision for second-generation pastry chef Jasmin Diggins, who has just called Vue de Monde to give full attention to Sockret (which means “sugar” in Swedish).
Diggins was raised by her single mother, who was also a pastry chef, which she said made her fond of aesthetics and flavors (“you can’t just make something pretty,” she says). She is also passionate about the role she wants her products to play in people’s lives. Her mother would be “sometimes so busy, the celebrations would come and she would feel gnawed with guilt for not having organized (a cake) in advance.”
For this reason, while capacity permits, Diggins strives to fulfill orders often with just 24 hours’ notice to take the stress out of the celebrations.
What’s in the box:
You can order a la carte from its signature pie list, or choose smaller 8cm versions (pictured) if you can’t commit to a whole pie. Each is also faithfully decorated in miniature, and what spectators they are. A lemon myrtle meringue pie is adorned with the perfect swirls of flambéed Swiss meringue and the scent of the Australian bush.
But you really want to lean into Swedish specialties here. Diggins named the bakery after her Swedish partner (whom she met at Vue de Monde – really sweet), and two of the specialties remain true to the tradition.
The double chocolate pie is filled with kladdkaka (pictured above), a gooey, brownie-like mixture that when eaten cold is like wading in molasses, and reheated becomes a self-gravy pudding.
Her cinnamon buns (available by the dozen or double dozen) are topped with a lemon cream cheese frosting or a parlsocker (aka, crispy shards of pearl sugar), sourced from the church. Swedish Toorak, a literal pantry for expats.
Miniature tarts $ 9 to $ 12 each, large $ 30 to $ 44. Order via sockretbakery.com, pick-up available at Prahran or delivery within a reasonable time (to be discussed when ordering).
PS Take 3
I can hardly call Philippa Sibley, Melbourne’s oft-heralded “dessert queen” an unsung hero. She has been celebrated since her time at East East East and Ondine, and will resume her post alongside fellow legend Karen Martini at Hero when the lockdown ends.
But I also can’t shout loud enough about Sibley offering a trio of in-house desserts for a limited time. Sibley blames herself for being unable to stand still, but the benefit for us is that neither her desserts are.
For fun, she models the dessert trio every week after the goddesses on the screen, from Princess Buttercup (white peach pie and burnt butter frangipane) to Lorelei Lee (raspberry and raspberry cheesecake). pink).
What’s in the box:
This week, it’s all the babes from the Tarantino movies, baby. Mia Wallace from pulp Fiction will be a remix of the $ 5 shake, which in Sibley’s hands means an olive oil almond cake vertically covered with chiboust vanilla cream, vanilla buttercream, bubbles of white chocolate and a cherry on top (photo on the right).
As for Alabama Whitman from True romance, Sibley says the muse will simply taste like a peach.
Desserts $ 60 for three. Order via [email protected] Pick-up only, Oxford Street, Collingwood.
Rosemary Andrews dessert boxes are available through a weekly ballot. Photo: Kimberly Wen Qi Liew
Rosemary Andrews’ star grew exponentially in 2021. She started the year behind the “Dessert Cart of Dreams” at Attica Summer Camp, but I remember when she stole the show at one of the first serves to Hazel.
While the kitchen as a whole was still finding its marks, Andrews’ Sweet and Sour Molasses Pie in a Perfect, Glowing Crust was glowing so bright it really made you care.
Many restaurants will tire of it as she moves into larger premises to continue her solo journey.
What’s in the box:
No decision required here; just lucky. To be as equal as possible, Andrews holds a ballot every week and the winners can buy his wares. The $ 55 boxes contain four of his desserts.
Cross each of your fingers and toes so that it includes the double-baked Valrhona chocolate pie, which looks like baked ganache, and a strawberry and cream pie which is the most impeccable way to accompany them. farmers in the current strawberry crisis.
$ 55 for four desserts. Order at instagram.com/rosemary___a. Delivery $ 5, 15 km from Flinders Street.
Dust donuts, by ex-Oakridge chief Rod Shokuhi, is a particularly targeted project. Shokuhi donuts are “lady’s fingers” (more like an eclair) and come in only two flavors: classic and raspberry, dusted with powdered sugar. Orders open mid-October. dustdonuts.com
Aidan Robinson Party chic is booked until November for custom orders, but keep an eye out for sneaky spaces that present themselves and cafes like Abacus and St Ali stocking their Portuguese pies. Pickup is from the Port Authority Building, Melbourne, or Robinson can quote for delivery virtually anywhere you’re willing to pay. chicdepartie.com